Elephant Ears Mural
A living wall of giant taro leaves deep in Saba's cloud forest
Why Go
Halfway along the Sandy Cruz Trail, the rainforest closes in and the path opens onto a natural 'mural' — a towering thicket of elephant-ear (Giant Taro) leaves the size of umbrellas, stacked like green tiles against the hillside. It's one of those quiet, unlabelled moments on Saba where the island stops being a hike and starts being a cathedral.
The Experience
Getting here is half the point. The Sandy Cruz Trail links Upper Hell's Gate (Zion's Hill) with Troy Hill, threading through mountain-cabbage forest, secondary rainforest, and the ruins of old subsistence farms. The Elephant Ears Mural section sits in the shaded, damp mid-slopes where Giant Taro thrives — leaves stacked five and six feet across, dripping after rain, filtering the light into that unmistakable Saban jade-green. It's not a painted mural and there's no sign; the name belongs to hikers and guides who've watched the same wall of leaves grow denser year after year. Expect birdsong, the occasional red-bellied racer snake sliding across the path, and — on clear days — flashes of the north coast and Sint Maarten between the canopy gaps.
What to Try
Time your walk so you hit the mural section around mid-morning, when the sun angles through the canopy and lights the leaves from behind. Bring a wide-angle lens or step back into the trail to get a person in frame for scale — the leaves genuinely dwarf most adults. If you're a plant nerd, look for the difference between true Giant Taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), Xanthosoma, and the smaller wild Colocasia further down the trail — all locally lumped together as 'elephant ears.'
Insider Tip
Start from the Upper Hell's Gate (Zion's Hill) trailhead rather than Troy Hill — the descent is gentler on the knees, and you'll reach the elephant-ear stretch before your legs are cooked. Wear grippy shoes and take a hiking stick from the Trail Shop in Windwardside; the clay turns to a skating rink after rain, and rain here is a rumor that comes true about every ninety minutes.
The Practical Stuff
Trailhead: Upper Hell's Gate (Zion's Hill), about a 10-minute drive from Windwardside. One-way distance is roughly 2.9 km / 1.8 mi with about 550 m of elevation change; plan 2.5–3 hours one way, plus transport back (arrange a taxi pickup at Troy Hill or retrace your steps). No entrance fee for the trail itself, but a Saba Marine & Nature fee tag (available from the Saba Conservation Foundation in Windwardside) is expected of all hikers. Bring 1.5 L of water per person, a light rain layer, and insect repellent. No facilities on-trail — go before you go.
Pair It With
- Barney's Ground Guide — Another quiet Sandy Cruz landmark — a grassy clearing with a bench and long views over the north coast, perfect for a snack break before you push on to Troy Hill.
- Bizzy B Guide — After the descent, reward the muddy boots with fresh bread, sandwiches, and a proper coffee from this beloved Windwardside bakery — the closest thing to a hikers' clubhouse on the island.
- Amonhana Guide — For a longer sit-down dinner post-hike, this warm restaurant does inventive island cooking that feels earned after a day in the cloud forest.
- Battery Corre Corre Guide — Pair the botanical hike with a bit of history — the old coastal battery ruins add a very different Saba story to the same day out.
