HakaKings: Paramaribo's Hakka Chinese Institution
Where Suriname's Chinese diaspora goes for a proper Hakka feast
Why Go
Follow the color-shifting neon sign on Copernicusstraat and you'll find one of Paramaribo's most beloved Hakka kitchens ΓÇö a place where whole steamed fish arrive buttery-tender, private air-conditioned dining rooms fill up with big Surinamese-Chinese families, and the wok fire doesn't slow down until nearly midnight.
The Experience
Suriname's Chinese community is one of the oldest and deepest-rooted in the Caribbean, and HakaKings (often written HAKKA Kings) is where that heritage still hits the plate. The dining room is functional rather than fancy ΓÇö think tiled floors, big round tables built for sharing, and private rooms with their own AC controls so a party of ten can settle in without competing with the buzz of the main hall. The staff greet you in Mandarin or Hakka first, but an English- or Dutch-speaking server will find you quickly. This isn't a spot for a quick bite: kitchen tickets can run 40 minutes or more on a busy night because dishes are cooked to order, whole fish are steamed from scratch, and duck is roasted whole. Come with a group, order a spread across the table, and treat the pace as part of the ritual.
What to Try
Steamed pike (snoek) with fermented black beans is the dish regulars swear by ΓÇö the fish comes out silky and the sauce is deeply savory without drowning it. Deep-fried kubi in sweet-and-sour sauce is the other standout: firm white fish, crackling batter, a bright glossy sauce that avoids the cloying trap most kitchens fall into. For duck, skip the standard roasted duck (heavy on bone) and pre-order the Peking-style presentation if you can. Round out with a claypot tofu, a plate of gai lan in oyster sauce, and a bowl of hand-pulled noodles.
Insider Tip
Reserve a private room if you're four or more ΓÇö they're free, cool, and let you actually hear each other over the clatter. And if you want the roasted duck done properly, call ahead in the afternoon and ask them to prep a Peking-style bird for your evening booking; it's not on the standard menu but the kitchen will oblige regulars.
The Practical Stuff
Copernicusstraat 113, roughly at the corner of Anamoesstraat, a short taxi from the historic center. Open Monday and Wednesday through Sunday, 11:00ΓÇô15:30 for lunch and 18:00ΓÇô23:00 for dinner; closed Tuesdays. Phone +597 457-821 for reservations (strongly recommended on weekends). Cash in SRD is safest; card acceptance is inconsistent. Mid-range pricing ΓÇö expect to eat very well for the price of a mediocre meal back home.
Pair It With
- 101 Suites Guide — Closest comfortable hotel base ΓÇö walk or grab a five-minute taxi back after a long, lazy dinner.
- Aanansi ATV Tours Guide — Big Hakka lunch fuels an afternoon of jungle riding; book the tour for the day, then reward yourself with the pike and black-bean sauce at night.
- 597SpeedUp Watertubing Guide — A morning on the river burns real calories ΓÇö HakaKings' shareable platters are the reset your group will be craving by sundown.
- 4x4xJankie Guide — Rent a 4x4 for interior day trips and swing back into town in time for the 18:00 dinner service; there's easy street parking on Copernicusstraat.