Well's Bay, Saba: The Beach That Comes and Goes
Sand that arrives in summer and leaves in winter, at the end of the island's only side road.
Why Go
Well's Bay is the closest thing Saba has to a beach, and it is only there for part of the year. Sand accumulates on this north-western shore through the calmer months and is stripped away again by winter swell, so the same bay is a stretch of dark sand in August and bare boulders in February. It sits at the bottom of a road that switchbacks down the cliff from The Bottom, and it is where Sabans go to swim on the days it exists.
The Experience
The drive down is short and dramatic, a series of tight bends cut into the cliff with the sea widening below. At the bottom the road simply stops. What you find depends entirely on the season: in the settled months a decent stretch of dark volcanic sand with clear calm water in front of it, and in the winter months rock, cobble and surf. Even at its best it is a small beach with no facilities of any kind — no bar, no shade, no lifeguard — and it is often empty. Offshore, Torrens Point and the tide pools mark the north-western corner, and Diamond Rock stands out of the water as the landmark of this coast. The bay is inside the marine park and the snorkelling straight off the shore is good when conditions allow. The bay is also a useful corrective for anyone booking Saba on the strength of Caribbean photographs. This island has no beach in the ordinary sense, it does not pretend otherwise, and the visitors who love it come for a mountain, a marine park and four villages rather than for sand.
What to Try
Swim and snorkel when the sand and the sea allow, which is most likely between roughly May and November. The water here is inside the Saba National Marine Park and the shore entry is one of the few on the island, so it is the best chance of getting into the sea without a boat. Torrens Point at the northern end has tide pools and is reached on foot along the shore. Beyond that there is nothing here to do, and no reason to come if the sand is gone — check before driving down, because locals will know. The Ladder and The Bottom are back up the hill, and the dive operations at Fort Bay run boats to this coast anyway, which is how most people see it underwater. Tent Bay along the same shore is the other stretch worth a look while you are down here.
Insider Tip
Ask whether the sand is there before you drive down. Well's Bay is genuinely seasonal — the beach builds in the calm months and is scoured back to boulders by winter swell — and visitors regularly make the descent expecting sand and find rock. Anyone on the island will know the current state. If it is there, go: it is the only proper swim Saba offers from shore, and it is usually empty.
The Practical Stuff
Well's Bay is at the end of a short, steep, switchbacked road down from The Bottom, about fifteen minutes from Windwardside and ten from the harbour at Fort Bay. It is the island's only side road. There are no facilities at the bay whatsoever — no bar, bathroom, shade or lifeguard — so bring everything. The sand is seasonal and the shore is boulders when it is absent. The water is inside the Saba National Marine Park. Entry is over sand or rock depending on the month and should be judged on the day. Saba is a special municipality of the Netherlands using the US dollar, with English the everyday language. The island is in the hurricane belt, roughly June to November.
Common Questions
Does Saba have a beach?
Only Well's Bay, and only for part of the year. Sand builds on this shore through the calmer months and is stripped back to boulders by winter swell, so the beach genuinely comes and goes.
When is the sand there?
Most likely between roughly May and November, though it varies year to year. Ask on the island before driving down — anyone will know the current state.
Can you snorkel at Well's Bay?
Yes when conditions allow. The bay is inside the marine park and this is one of very few shore entries on Saba, which makes it the best chance of getting in without a boat.
Are there facilities?
None at all — no bar, bathroom, shade or lifeguard. The road ends at the bay and that is the entirety of the infrastructure. Bring everything you need.
How do you get there?
By a short, steep, switchbacked road down from The Bottom — the island's only side road. It is about fifteen minutes from Windwardside and ten from Fort Bay.
Is it worth going if the sand is gone?
Not really. Without the sand it is a boulder shore, and the drive down exists to reach a beach. Check first and go elsewhere on the island if it is not there.
Pair It With
- Well's Bay Beach Guide — The sand, when the season has delivered it.
- Saba National Marine Park Guide — The protected water off this shore.
- The Ladder Guide — The other coastal walk, back up the hill.
