Layou, St. Vincent: The Petroglyph and the Pirate Set

Why Go

Layou is a fishing village on St. Vincent's leeward coast, about half an hour north of Kingstown, and it holds two things that bring people off the road. Upriver behind the village is a large boulder carved with a petroglyph, cut by the island's first inhabitants and one of the clearest pre-Columbian carvings in the eastern Caribbean. A few minutes north at Wallilabou, the set built for the first Pirates of the Caribbean film was largely left in place, and the bay is now a strange hybrid of working anchorage and film relic.

The Experience

The leeward road here runs close to the water with the land climbing steeply inland, so the villages are strung along a narrow shelf between hills and sea. Layou itself is small, with dark volcanic sand, boats pulled up, and a river coming down out of the interior behind it. The valley inland is green and agricultural. At Wallilabou the bay is deep and sheltered — which is why it was chosen for filming and why yachts anchor there — and the wooden jetty and buildings from the production still stand, weathered and partly repurposed. It is either charming or slightly forlorn depending on your view of film sets left standing twenty years on. The drive along this coast is spectacular and slow. This coast rewards driving slowly and stopping often, which is the opposite of how most visitors treat it. There are half a dozen villages between Kingstown and Chateaubelair, each on its own small bay, and the road links them along a shelf so narrow that in places the sea is directly below the wheels.

What to Try

See the petroglyph at Layou Petroglyph Park, which requires a short walk up the river valley and, usually, a local guide to open the gate and explain it — arrange it in the village rather than turning up expecting a visitor centre. Then drive north to Wallilabou Anchorage for the film set and lunch by the water. Buccaneers and The Garden Bar cover the eating along this coast, with Rock-Side Cafe and Pat-A-Cake Cakery for the daytime. Adventure Island SVG and the local land and sea operators run trips along the leeward shore, which is the better way to see this coastline than the road. Greaves Marketplace is the practical shop. Barrouallie and the whaling village are a few minutes further north. Pat-A-Cake Cakery and Divine SVG round out the short list of stops in the village.

Insider Tip

Arrange the petroglyph visit in the village rather than driving to the site. It sits on private land up the river valley, access is through a gate, and turning up unaccompanied usually means seeing nothing — whereas asking in Layou generally produces someone who will take you and explain what you are looking at. Pay them properly. It is one of the most significant pre-Columbian objects on the island and there is no ticket office to do the arranging for you. Go on a weekday morning as well, because the fishing beach is busiest then and the village is at its most itself.

The Practical Stuff

Layou is about thirty minutes north of Kingstown on the leeward coast road, and roughly forty from Argyle International. Driving is on the LEFT and a temporary local permit is required; the leeward road is narrow, winding and steep, with blind corners — it is a slow drive and worth taking slowly. Minibuses run the route cheaply and frequently. Parking in the village is informal. The beaches along this coast are dark volcanic sand and used mostly by fishermen. Facilities are limited to small shops and a few restaurants. St. Vincent is in the hurricane belt, roughly June to November, and the rivers here rise quickly in heavy rain.

Common Questions

What is the Layou petroglyph?

A large boulder up the river valley behind the village, carved by the island's pre-Columbian inhabitants. It is among the clearest such carvings in the eastern Caribbean and sits on private land.

How do you visit the petroglyph?

Arrange it in the village. Access is through a gate on private land and turning up alone usually means seeing nothing, whereas asking locally produces a guide who will take you and explain it.

Is the Pirates of the Caribbean set still there?

Yes, at Wallilabou a few minutes north. Much of the built set was left in place and still stands, weathered and partly repurposed, in what is also a working yacht anchorage.

How far is Layou from Kingstown?

About thirty minutes north on the leeward coast road, and roughly forty from Argyle International. The road is narrow and winding, so allow more time than the distance suggests.

Is there a beach?

Dark volcanic sand used mostly by fishermen, as along the whole leeward coast. St. Vincent's sand is black; the white beaches are down in the Grenadines.

Can you get there by bus?

Yes — minibuses run the leeward route from Kingstown cheaply and frequently, though they are less convenient if you intend to stop at several places along the coast.

Pair It With

Layou Petroglyph Park — The carving upriver, with a guide from the village.
Wallilabou Anchorage — The film set and lunch, minutes north.
Adventure Island SVG — The coast from the water instead of the road.