The Hermitage: Sleeping (and Feasting) in Nevis's Oldest House
A 350-year-old gingerbread great house where the Lupinacci family still pours the rum punch themselves.
Why Go
Long before Nevis was a Caribbean insider secret, the Hermitage's Great House was already standing ΓÇö built somewhere between 1670 and 1740, it's widely called the oldest surviving wooden house in the Caribbean. Three centuries later it's still a working home, just one that happens to have fifteen gingerbread cottages scattered through its mango-shaded gardens and a kitchen turning out some of the best food on the island.
The Experience
Set on five hillside acres above Nevis's leeward coast, the Hermitage feels less like a hotel and more like being adopted by an unusually stylish Caribbean family. Richard Lupinacci, his son Richie, and daughter-in-law Annie run the place hands-on, and it shows: rum punch on the great-house veranda at sunset, four-poster canopy beds in cottages painted in sherbet colors, oriental rugs on wide-plank floors, and horses grazing on the lawn. Days drift between the pool, the stables, and long lunches under the royal palms; evenings begin with cocktails in the parlor of the 17th-century Great House, where guests and locals mix like it's a house party someone forgot to end.
What to Try
Book a night in one of the original gingerbread cottages ΓÇö the older ones nearest the Great House have the most character, with private verandas overlooking the gardens. For dinner, don't miss the slow-cooked goat water stew, a Nevisian classic done properly here, or the pumpkin soup laced with island spice. Wednesday's Pig Roast (6:30 PM, reservations essential) is a genuine island institution that draws in-the-know locals and expats; Friday's Wood-Fired Pizza Night ($19, walk-ins welcome) is the laid-back counterpart. Sunday brunch on the porch, surrounded by mango trees, is considered by many the best on the island.
Insider Tip
The bar in the Great House is where the real Nevis unfolds ΓÇö regulars, sailors, and passing writers drift in for a rum punch even if they're not staying the night. Show up around 6 PM, take a seat on the veranda, and let Richard or Richie tell you where to eat the next day; their tips beat any guidebook. If you're not staying over, book Pig Roast Wednesday well in advance and arrive early to explore the house before dinner.
The Practical Stuff
Location: hillside above St. John Figtree Parish, about a 15-minute drive from Charlestown and 20 minutes from the ferry pier. Just 15 rooms and cottages ΓÇö reserve months ahead for high season (DecemberΓÇôApril). The restaurant is open to non-guests by reservation; call ahead for Pig Roast Wednesday and Sunday brunch. Dress is Caribbean-casual but people do change for dinner. Alexandra Hospital is a short drive down the hill if needed. Rental car recommended ΓÇö the property is not walkable to town.
Pair It With
- Birthplace of Alexander Hamilton Guide — A short drive down to Charlestown pairs beautifully with a Hermitage stay ΓÇö same 17th-century Nevis story, told in a different building.
- Bananas Restaurant Guide — Another hillside hideaway with a Nevis-eccentric personality; a good change of scene on a night the Hermitage isn't doing a themed dinner.
- 5Trees Bar & Lounge Guide — Handy sunset cocktail stop on the way back from Charlestown before returning up the hill for dinner at the Great House.
- 869 Sports Bar & Grill Guide — A casual, local-leaning contrast to the Hermitage's plantation-inn polish ΓÇö good for a low-key lunch between beach days.