Washington Slagbaai National Park, Bonaire: The Wild Fifth of the Island
Two former plantations turned into desert park, with the island's highest hill and its emptiest beaches.
Why Go
Washington Slagbaai occupies the entire northern end of Bonaire — roughly a fifth of the island — and it was the first nature sanctuary in the Dutch Antilles, created out of two old plantations that had grown aloe, charcoal and goats. Inside are salt lakes with flamingos, cactus desert, the island's highest hill, and a run of coves on the windward and leeward coasts that are among the best snorkelling and shore diving anywhere on Bonaire. You drive it on rough tracks, and you need to be out before the gate closes.
The Experience
There are two signed routes from the entrance: a shorter loop and a longer one, both one-way, both unpaved, and both far rougher than visitors expect — this is a park you drive slowly, in something with clearance. The landscape is genuinely arid, all columnar cactus, divi-divi and rock, with iguanas on the road and parrots audible more often than seen. Salt lakes inland hold flamingos, particularly Goto Meer with its lookout. The coast is the reward: Playa Funchi and Wayaka are calm, clear leeward coves with excellent snorkelling straight off the rocks; Boka Bartol and the windward side are wild, loud and not for swimming. Brandaris, the island's highest point at about 240 metres, is climbed on foot from inside the park. The park is also a lesson in how quickly this landscape recovers and how slowly it forgives. Goats grazed it hard for centuries and the vegetation still shows it, while the reefs offshore, protected from the same pressure, are among the healthiest on the island. Driving through it, the contrast between the two is the most interesting thing about the day.
What to Try
Snorkel or dive the leeward coves — Playa Funchi and the three Wayaka sites are the reason experienced visitors keep coming back, and the water is clear and calm with almost nobody in it. Boca Slagbaai has the old plantation buildings and a beach, and is the usual lunch stop, though you must bring your own food. Climb Brandaris if you are fit and start early: it is a rocky hour or so each way with no shade and the view covers the whole island and out to Curaçao on a clear day. Stop at the Mirante Goto Meer lookout over the flamingo lagoon. Boka Bartol on the windward side is worth seeing precisely because you cannot get in the water there.
Insider Tip
Arrive at opening and treat the gate time as a hard deadline. The park stops admitting vehicles in the early afternoon and everyone must be out by closing — the routes are one-way and long, so starting late means either rushing the good part or not finishing. Fill the tank, carry all your water and food, and take a spare tyre seriously: there are no facilities, no fuel and patchy phone signal inside, and the tracks are hard on cars. A saloon hire car is not the right vehicle.
The Practical Stuff
The park entrance is a few minutes north of Rincon, about thirty minutes from Kralendijk and thirty-five from Flamingo Airport. Entry requires the STINAPA nature tag — the same one divers buy, valid for the calendar year — and there is a separate vehicle registration at the gate. Opening is early morning with last admission in the early afternoon; check the current times before setting out, as they change seasonally. Roads inside are unpaved, rocky and one-way, and high clearance is strongly advised. There are no shops, no fuel and no restaurants inside, and phone coverage is unreliable. Bonaire lies outside the main hurricane belt, but the park closes in heavy rain because the tracks flood.
Common Questions
Do you need a 4x4 for Washington Slagbaai?
High clearance is strongly advised. The two routes are unpaved, rocky and rougher than most visitors expect, and a standard saloon hire car is the wrong vehicle for them.
What are the opening hours?
Early morning opening with last admission in the early afternoon, and everyone must be out by closing. Times change seasonally, so check before setting out — the routes are one-way and long.
Is there an entry fee?
Entry requires the STINAPA nature tag, the same one divers buy and valid for the calendar year, plus a vehicle registration at the gate.
Can you snorkel in the park?
Yes, and it is one of the main reasons to go. Playa Funchi and the Wayaka coves on the leeward side are calm and clear with excellent snorkelling straight off the rocks. Do not swim on the windward side.
Can you climb Brandaris?
Yes — the island's highest point at around 240 metres, roughly an hour each way over rock with no shade. Start early, carry water, and allow for the drive out afterwards before the gate closes.
Are there facilities inside?
None. No shops, no fuel, no restaurants, unreliable phone coverage. Bring all your water and food, and fill the tank in Rincon on the way.
Pair It With
- Playa Funchi (3) — The clearest easy snorkelling in the park.
- Brandaris — The island's highest point, on foot.
- Boca Slagbaai — Plantation buildings and the lunch stop.
